The once serene town of Sudzha has been devastated following a sudden and intense assault by Ukrainian forces eleven days ago.
This unexpected offensive marks a dramatic shift in the ongoing war, as Ukraine extends its military operations into Russian territory.
The aftermath of the attack is stark. Decomposing bodies lie in the streets, civilian vehicles riddled with bullets are abandoned by the roadside, and shrapnel is strewn across the town.
In the central square, the statue of Lenin bears the scars of the violence, with half of its face blasted away. The town’s residents, those who have not fled, are taking refuge in bomb shelters, struggling to comprehend the destruction that has overtaken their once peaceful community.
The air is thick with the smell of death, seeping from buildings torn apart by the relentless fighting.
These grim scenes, once associated only with the battlefields of Ukraine, have now become a reality within Russia’s borders.
On Thursday, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky declared that Sudzha was under Ukrainian control.
This surprising development has sent shockwaves through Russia, a nation that, when President Vladimir Putin initiated his military campaign two years ago, never expected to find itself under attack.
CNN journalists, escorted by Ukrainian military personnel, crossed into Russia, navigating through what remained of a border post obliterated in the initial Ukrainian assault.
The road leading to Sudzha was eerily calm, flanked by peaceful fields. However, the tranquility was occasionally broken by plumes of black smoke rising from the horizon, a stark reminder of the ongoing conflict. These fields, once safeguarded by a Cold War-era superpower, had not witnessed invasion since World War II.
At the turnoff into Sudzha, a large Orthodox Christian cross stood sentinel, inscribed with the plea, “God save and protect us.” Nearby, the charred remains of two tanks and other armored vehicles bore silent witness to the fierce battles that had raged just days earlier.
Despite the devastation, Sudzha’s streets are largely deserted, save for the distant sounds of small arms fire and artillery, a constant reminder of the war’s proximity.
A Ukrainian military escort accompanying CNN indicated that Russian attack drones, which had previously stalled Ukraine’s advances, were now too occupied with front-line battles to focus on the border and Sudzha.
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The absence of Russian air support points to a potential shift in the balance of power, with Ukraine improving its capabilities to execute such a surprise offensive.
The presence of Western-supplied armored vehicles on the roads into Russia further underscores the significant resources Ukraine is deploying in this campaign.
Although many of Sudzha’s residents have fled, some remain. Outside a large building, a handwritten sign reads, “Here are peaceful people in the basement, no military.” Inna, 68, who sat at the entrance, explained that 60 other civilians were sheltering in the basement.
“They brought a lot of boxes, their food,” she said, referring to the Ukrainian forces.
Inside the basement, the atmosphere is one of despair. The infirm, isolated, and confused are huddled together in the dark.
An elderly woman, dressed in a bright red summer dress, gently rocked back and forth as she spoke. “And now I don’t know how it will end. At least a truce so we can live peacefully. We don’t need anything. It’s my crutch, I can’t walk. It’s very hard,” she murmured, as flies buzzed around her in the oppressive heat.
In another part of the shelter, a flickering light revealed a weary family of six. The father, exhausted, said, “A week. No news. We don’t know what’s happening around us.” His son, sitting silently beside him, appeared pale and expressionless.
Further down the corridor, Yefimov, an elderly man in his 90s, spoke with one of the Ukrainian escorts. His daughter, niece, and grandchildren are married to Ukrainian men and live in Ukraine, but he has been unable to contact them.
“To Ukraine,” he responded when asked where he wished to flee. “You are the first to mention it. People talked about it but you are the first to come.” For many in Sudzha, even the thought of evacuation would be daunting, especially in peacetime.
Out on the shattered streets, 74-year-old Nina searched for medication. With shops destroyed and pharmacies closed, she remains resolute in her decision not to leave, echoing the sentiments of many older Ukrainian women who have stayed in their war-torn towns.
“If I wanted to, I would. Why would I leave where I lived for 50 years? My daughter and mother are in the graveyard, and my son was born here, my grandkids… I live on my land. I don’t know where I live. I don’t know whose land this is, I don’t understand anything,” Nina said.
As the conflict in Sudzha continues, the outcome of this rapid and unexpected assault remains uncertain.
The timing of the Russian military’s response is also unclear, but when they do arrive, it may be too late to reverse the damage inflicted on Russia’s national pride since the war’s inception in February 2022.
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